Spring might be here, but the temperature is still chilly enough that I find myself craving the warmth of soup. I'm also really into beans right now, especially black beans. Enter today's recipe for Sopa de Frijol Negro con Chochoyotes – or Black Bean Soup with Corn Masa Dumplings.
Heart-healthy black beans are earthy-tasting and slightly sweet. They're sturdy and meaty, making them a great choice for soup (try my Quick Mexican Chipotle Black Bean Soup). In today's recipe, I opted to do an overnight soak and then cook the beans in my Ninja Foodi pressure cooker. With the soak, these beans only needed to pressure cook for 6 minutes on high. They were tender but not mushy and perfect for use in this soup.
The corn masa dumplings, called chochoyotes in Spanish, are super easy to make. They're also known as cazuelitas (small stew pots) because they look like tiny bowls. This pre-Columbian dumpling is made from the same corn masa used for making corn tortillas but with the addition of lard and sometimes herbs. The masa (dough) is rolled into a small, 1-inch ball, then you press the tip of your finger into the center, making an indentation halfway through the ball. These are then dropped into gently simmering soup or mole to cook. When scooped up to eat, soup is caught in the indentation, like a Mexican version of a Chinese soup dumpling.
The ingredients
Beans: Like all beans, black beans are a high-fiber, cholesterol-free, low-calorie, heart-healthy food. A high-fiber diet can help reduce bad cholesterol and triglycerides. The amount of fiber in beans makes them a high-carbohydrate food. However, the bulk of the carbs in black beans come in the form of resistant starch. Meaning, the fiber passes through the upper digestive tract without being converted into sugar. Black beans are also anti-inflammatory and can help reduce high blood pressure.
Sofrito: Sofrito is the Latin American version of French Mirepoix – a mix of chopped veggies that are sauteed slowly over low heat to bring out their sweetness. Sofrito is used to build flavor in many recipes. The ingredients in a sofrito will vary slightly depending on region and use. Today's recipe uses onion, celery, bell pepper, jalapeño and garlic as the foundation of this black bean soup.
Spices: Earthy cumin and floral coriander get bloomed in the sofrito, along with salt and pepper. Cumin pairs especially well with black beans.
Chicken stock: I'm using storebought low sodium chicken broth for the liquid (looking for a good recommendation? The New York Times staff rated the Target brand Good & Gather No Salt Added Chicken Bone Broth as their favorite; try it and see what you think); use homemade if you have it. You could also keep this vegetarian and use vegetable or mushroom broth.
For garnishing:
Chorizo: Unfortunately, my freezer is out of my homemade pork chorizo, so I'm using my favorite storebought from Cacique. If you're keeping this vegetarian, use soy chorizo (try the original El Burrito Soyrizo which uses organically grown soybeans here in the U.S. and is non-GMO; it has the boldest flavor and the most "meaty" texture of all the soy chorizos that I've tried).
Cotija cheese: An aged Mexican cheese originating in the state of Michoacán, cotija is a semi-hard salty crumbly cheese made from cow's milk. It's an umami bomb and adds just the right amount of sharpness to this slightly sweet and earthy black bean soup.
Crema: Mexican crema is like a runnier version of American sour cream with one crucial difference – it has a higher fat content and therefore doesn't separate when exposed to heat the way sour cream can. Even though it's not nearly as thick as sour cream, it's creamier and richer tasting in my opinion.
Cilantro: Did you know that you could grow your own cilantro by planting some of your whole coriander seeds? My dad does it, and his cilantro plants are always healthy and thriving. I love the herbaceousness that fresh cilantro brings to a dish. Here, it adds brightness and highlights the citrusy notes from the coriander.
For the chochoyotes:
Masa harina: When field corn is treated with calcium hydroxide through a process called nixtamalization, a chemical change happens, not only unlocking its nutritional properties but also changing the corn's makeup that allows it to bind into a dough when ground. This corn dough called masa, is then used to make corn tortillas, tamales, sopes, gorditas, empanadas and so much more. Masa harina - or corn dough flour - is the result of taking freshly ground masa and dehydrating it. It's then finely ground to make flour that can be reconstituted with water and then used in the same manner as freshly ground masa. Maseca, Bobs Red Mill and Quaker are brands easily found at most supermarkets. However, for the last several years, I have exclusively used Masienda brand of masa harina. Masienda works with farmers in Mexico to help native heirloom corn not only survive but thrive (various varieties of this heirloom corn are available through their website). Their masa harina has a more pronounced corn smell and flavor, resulting in a superior-tasting tortilla.
Lard: Lard is flavor, need I say more?
Salt: Salt helps make a thing taste more like itself. Not everyone uses salt in chochoyote masa, but I like that it amplifies the corn flavor.
Baking powder: This is completely optional. Not all recipes for chochoyotes include it; I feel it makes the texture a bit lighter.
Herbs: Basic chochoyotes are fresh masa or masa harina, lard and salt. If I'm cooking the chochoyotes in a super brothy, highly seasoned chicken soup or chile-forward mole, that's all I need, as the chochoyotes will absorb those flavors as it cooks. With the earthiness and thickness of this black bean soup, I love adding a combination of chopped fresh cilantro and epazote; they bring a fresh herbaceousness to the dumplings.
How to make Black Bean Soup with Masa Dumplings Sopa de Frijol Negro con Chochoyotes
The night before, sort and clean 1 pound of beans. Remove any debris and any beans that are shriveled, broken or have holes in them. I also remove any split beans.
Rinse the beans well, then place in a large container and cover them with water by 4 inches (about 4 quarts of water). Stir in 1 teaspoon baking soda and 3 tablespoons of salt. In tests performed by Cook's Illustrated, the baking soda creates an alkaline environment that produces creamier, more tender beans in less time. Adding salt is another one of their tips. "The sodium ions," according to Cook's Illustrated, "replace some of the calcium and magnesium ions in the skins." The weaker sodium ions allow more water to penetrate the skin, resulting in a softer texture.
On the left, unsoaked beans. On the right are plump beans soaked for 18 hours.
The next day, drain and rinse the soaked beans; set aside.
Next, we'll prep the veggies for the sofrito. Begin with slicing and dicing the bell pepper. I like to stand the pepper, then slice downwards, keeping the knife away from the center seed pod.
Do this on all four sides and you should get four clean, seed-free planks of pepper.
Slice each plank into ¼-inch strips.
Then slice across the strips into a ¼-inch dice.
Cut the ribs of celery in half, then slice each half into ¼-inch sticks.
Gather the sticks of celery and slice across them to make a ¼-inch dice.
Set the prepped veggies aside. Also, not pictured: Mince a jalapeño (deseed first for less heat if desired).
Turn on the sauté function on your Ninja Foodi or Instant Pot and heat 1 tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil. Add the onions and sauté until softened but not browned. Add the garlic and cook, stirring for 1 minute or until fragrant.
Note: No electric pressure cooker? No problem. The recipe at the end of the pictorial directions includes instructions on stovetop cooking.
Drop in the bell pepper, celery and jalapeño, stirring to sauté for 2 to 3 minutes.
Add the cumin, coriander, salt and pepper to the pot and stir to bloom for 30 seconds.
Toss in the beans, stirring to combine.
Pour in the warmed chicken stock. Turn off the sauté function, put on the pressure cooking lid, making sure the vent is closed. Manually set the appliance to pressure cook on high for 6 minutes. Let the machine naturally release for 15 minutes, then quick release any remaining pressure. Leave covered while you prepare the rest of the ingredients.
Next, we'll work on the chochoyotes. First we'll prep the herbs. On the left are a few sprigs of cilantro; epazote is on the right. Epazote is a pungent-smelling herb with notes of oregano, citrus, anise, thyme and mint. It's used often in Mexican cooking.
Although I often use cilantro stems, in this application we are going to just want the tender leaves. Finely chop enough leaves to get 2 generous teaspoons of cilantro.
Destem the epazote.
Stack the leaves and roll them up.
Cut across them to make thin ribbons, then finely chop.
Place the masa harina in a bowl.
Add the salt, baking powder and herbs.
Mix to combine well.
Add the lard.
Pour in the warm water.
Begin mixing to incorporate all the ingredients.
Knead the masa for 5 minutes. Pinch off some masa and roll it into a ball, then flatten it between your palms. If the disk has cracks along the edge, add more water to the masa a teaspoon at a time, repeating the test as necessary until a flattened disk has no cracks. Conversely, if the masa is really wet and sticky, add a teaspoon of masa harina, kneading it to work it in completely. Cover the dough with a clean damp dish towel and set aside to fully hydrate.
Continue cooking the chorizo until it's lightly caramelized. Transfer to a serving bowl and set aside.
Pinch off enough masa to make about a 1-inch size ball.
Use your thumb or forefinger to make an indentation in the ball.
This is the shape you're aiming for. It should look like a tiny bowl.
Cover the chochoyotes with a clean damp dish towel. Add 2 quarts of water to a large pot and bring to a boil.
Now that the beans are finished cooking, transfer 2 cups of the beans to a blender (I love my Nutribullet for small jobs like this). Add a cup of bean broth.
Puree the beans until smooth.
Pour the processed beans back into the pot of beans.
Stir to incorporate and return to the pressure cooker base. Turn on sauté mode and heat for 6 to 8 minutes to thicken slightly. Turn off the beans but leave them covered to keep warm.
Back to the chochoyotes: Now that the water is boiling, add some chicken bouillon. Our family has always used Knorrs but feel free to use your favorite.
Lower the heat to maintain a hard simmer (you don't want the water boiling, which will quickly disintegrate the dumplings).
Begin adding the chochoyotes.
They should take about 15 to 20 minutes to cook. They should float to the top and be tender when you bite into them but not raw tasting.
To serve, ladle soup into a bowl. Add the chorizo, 4 or 5 chochoyotes, some queso fresco and some cilantro leaves.
Black Bean Soup with Masa Dumplings Sopa de Frijol Negro con Chochoyotes
The beans will need an overnight soak, so plan ahead. The bean cooking section has directions for stovetop cooking if you don't own an electric pressure cooker.
Makes 6 servings
To soak the beans overnight:
1 pound dry black beans
Finish the beans: Now that the beans are finished cooking, transfer 2 cups of the beans to a blender (I love my Nutribullet for small jobs like this). Add a cup of bean broth. Puree the beans until smooth. Pour the processed beans back into the pot of beans. Stir to incorporate and return to the pressure cooker base. Turn on sauté mode and heat for 6 to 8 minutes to thicken slightly. Turn off the beans but leave them covered to keep warm.
4 quarts water
3 tablespoons coarse salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
Sort and clean the beans removing any debris and beans that are shriveled, broken or have holes in them. Rinse the beans well, then place them in a large container and cover them with water by 4 inches (about 4 quarts of water). Add the salt and the baking soda stirring to incorporate. Leave on the counter to soak overnight (10 to 18 hours).
To cook the beans:
5 cups chicken stock
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 medium to large yellow onion, chopped to ¼-inch dice
4 fat cloves garlic, minced
1 large green bell pepper, chopped to ¼-inch dice
2 ribs celery, chopped to ¼-inch dice
1 jalapeño, minced
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon coarse sea salt
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
In a large pot, bring the chicken broth to a boil, then turn down the heat to low until needed.
Meanwhile, turn on the sauté mode on your Ninja Foodi or Instant Pot and heat the olive oil. Once shimmering, add the onions and sauté until softened but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring for 1 minute or until fragrant. Drop in the bell pepper, celery and jalapeño, stirring to sauté for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the cumin, coriander, salt and pepper to the pot and stir for 1 minute. Stir in the beans. Pour in the hot chicken broth. Turn off the sauté function, put on the pressure cooking lid, making sure the vent is closed. Manually set the appliance to pressure cook on high for 6 minutes. Let the machine naturally release for 15 minutes, then quick release any remaining pressure. Leave covered on warm mode while you prepare the rest of the ingredients.
Stovetop method: If you don't have an electric pressure cooker, you can make this soup in a 4-quart soup pot or Dutch oven. Follow all the same instructions as above, sauteing directly in the soup pot over medium heat. Once you get to the broth instruction, raise the heat to high and bring the pot to a boil. Immediately reduce heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook the beans, partially covered, for 40 to 50 minutes, or until the beans are tender to your liking.
To make the dumpling dough:
1½ cups masa harina (Masienda brand of Heirloom white corn masa harina recommended)
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon sea salt
2 teaspoons finely chopped cilantro leaves
2 teaspoons finely chopped epazote leaves
1 tablespoon lard
1¼ very warm water
Using your hands, mix together the masa harina, baking powder, salt and herbs until well combined. Add the lard and water and mix until a dough forms. Allow the dough to rest, covered with a damp towel, for 20 minutes to fully hydrate. While you wait, cook the chorizo.
Cook the chorizo:
9 ounces pork or beef chorizo
Heat a pan over medium heat. Once hot, add the chorizo, breaking it up with a spatula. Continue cooking the chorizo until it's lightly caramelized. Transfer to a serving bowl and set aside.
Make the chochoyotes: Pinch off about a whole walnut-sized amount of dough and roll it into a ball (should be about 1 inch in diameter). Using your forefinger or thumb, press a hole in the center about a third to half of the way into the ball. Place on a tray and keep covered with a damp towel. Repeat with the remaining dough. You should get about 30 to 34 dumplings.
To cook the dumplings:
2 quarts water
3 tablespoons chicken bouillon (I use Knorr's)
Add water to a large pot and bring to a boil. While you wait for the water to boil, finish the beans.
Back to the chochoyotes: Now that the water is boiling, whisk in the bouillon. Lower the heat to maintain a hard simmer (you don't want the water boiling, which will quickly disintegrate the dumplings). Begin adding the chochoyotes. They should take about 15 to 20 minutes to cook. To test, cut one in half, and when cool enough to handle, take a bite. They should be tender but not raw tasting.
To serve: Ladle soup into a bowl. Add 5 chochoyotes. Garnish with some chorizo, some crumbled queso fresco and a few cilantro leaves.
Until next time, friends … ¡Buen Provecho!
xo, ani
If you love beans, try these:
Learn how to make Mexican Frijoles de la Olla
Quick and heart-healthy Mexican Chipotle Black Bean Soup
Learn to cook Chickpeas from scratch
Technically not a bean but still a legume, this Mexican Lentil Stew is a quick favorite
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