Once, while making enchiladas, my grandmother stood over my shoulder, watching. Like so many foods, how a dish is prepared differs by region. In some parts of Mexico, the tortillas are dipped into the sauce and then fried in hot oil or lard. In other parts of the country, they're fried first and then dipped. My grandmother's family followed the former, and my father's family followed the latter, which she curiously watched me do. "It's how my dad taught my mom, who taught me," I answered her unasked question.
"Hmmm. Well, it all goes to the same place," she said with a smile. "You know," she continued, this time in Spanish, "when I was young and living in Mexico, we didn't make enchiladas the way we make them here."
"You didn't?" I responded in English, which was my usual way to respond to her, considering my Spanish is terrible.
"No, these we make here," she had switched back to her heavily accented English, "I don't know what they would call them in Mexico." She paused as she thought it over. "Taquitos con salsa, maybe."
She explained that the enchiladas of her youth were all about the sauce; the stuffing, if any, was secondary, and definitely not the cheesy concoctions often found on this side of the border.
Enchilada comes from the Spanish word "enchilar," which means to season with chile. Tortillas, whether fried first or dipped first, were drenched in chile sauce, folded over once, and then topped with shredded lettuce or cabbage, pickled jalapeños, radishes, slices of onion, and a light sprinkling of queso fresco. Sometimes, families will stew carrots and potatoes and serve them on the side (called "enchiladas mineras" or miner's enchiladas).
After hearing this, it made sense that my mother's enchiladas — my favorite! — were never overstuffed or drowned in cheese. Mom served them piled high with shredded lettuce, olives, chopped onions, and sometimes chopped tomatoes. A good dollop of sour cream finished the presentation.
As I drenched the fried tortillas in the chile verde salsa, Grandma pulled a spoon out of the drawer to taste it. "Mmm, bueno," she said ("Good").
She watched as I stuffed the tortillas with black beans and queso fresco, slightly scrunching her nose. I knew she wasn't a fan of black beans, finding the color off-putting.
When the enchiladas were ready, I served her just one in case the black beans were too offensive. She took the plate and returned to her bedroom, just off the kitchen, where she sat on the edge of her bed to eat and watch TV. During a commercial break, she wandered back into the kitchen towards the platter of enchiladas and served herself another with a generous spoonful of additional salsa. I smiled to myself and pretended not to notice.
Photo Step-By-Step: How to make Black Bean & Queso Fresco Enchiladas Verde
Doctor the beans
Pour the beans into a medium saucepan. Add the remaining ingredients for the beans and simmer over low for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Turn off the heat and set aside until ready to
assemble.
Make the salsa verde
Heat oil in a large skillet. Add the tomatillos, chile peppers, onion and garlic. Cook, stirring, until the tomatillos change color and soften slightly, about 6 to 8 minutes.
Transfer to a blender. If you're using a high-speed blender, there is no need to wait for the tomatillo mixture to cool; just remove the cup from the lid and cover the hole with a clean dish towel. Using a standard blender, allow the mixture to cool for 10 minutes before proceeding. Add the remaining ingredients for the salsa to the blender and purée on high until completely smooth, about 3 to 4 minutes.
Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in the same large skillet. Once hot, quickly pour in the salsa, stirring immediately (be careful, it will sputter). Lower heat to a simmer. Between the 5- and 8-minute mark, skim and discard the foam that rises (the foam is excess acid from the tomatillos; removing it produces a smoother, more well-balanced sauce). Simmer the salsa for at least 20 minutes. Turn off the heat and remove it from the burner.
Flash-fry the tortillas
Heat a small skillet with ¼ cup neutral oil. Once hot, submerge a tortilla and fry for 20 seconds.
Flip and free the second side for 20 seconds.
Assemble the enchiladas
Preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Spread ½ cup of salsa on the bottom of a 9x12 casserole pan.
Place the enchilada — seam side down — into the casserole dish. Repeat with remaining tortillas.
Makes 4 servings
1 cup chicken stock
¼ medium onion
1 fat clove garlic, smashed and peeled
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground coriander
Pinch black pepper
1 pound tomatillos, husked, washed and quartered
1 poblano pepper, deseeded, deveined and cut into 1-inch pieces
½ pound (3 or 4) Anaheim peppers, deseeded, deveined and cut into 1-inch pieces
½ medium onion, roughly chopped
2 to 3 cloves garlic, peeled
1 generous handful of baby spinach
½ bunch cilantro
3 springs epazote
1 scant teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon Mexican oregano
½ teaspoon sea salt
½ teaspoon black pepper
2 cups chicken stock
1 cup crumbled queso fresco, plus more to sprinkle over the enchiladas
2 green onions, finely chopped
Diced avocado
Mexican crema (or sour cream)
Cilantro leaves
Pour the beans into a medium saucepan. Add the remaining ingredients for the beans and simmer over low for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Turn off the heat and set aside until ready to assemble.
Heat oil in a large skillet. Add the tomatillos, chile peppers, onion and garlic. Cook, stirring, until the tomatillos change color and soften slightly, about 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a blender. If you're using a high-speed blender, there is no need to wait for the tomatillo mixture to cool; just remove the cup from the lid and cover the hole with a clean dish towel. Using a standard blender, allow the mixture to cool for 10 minutes before proceeding. Add the remaining ingredients for the salsa to the blender and purée on high until completely smooth, about 3 to 4 minutes. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in the same large skillet. Once hot, quickly pour in the salsa, stirring immediately (be careful, it will sputter). Lower heat to a simmer. Between the 5- and 8-minute mark, skim and discard the foam that rises (the foam is excess acid from the tomatillos; removing it produces a smoother, more well-balanced sauce). Simmer the salsa for at least 20 minutes. Turn off the heat and remove it from the burner.
Heat a small skillet with ¼ cup neutral oil. Once hot, submerge a tortilla and fry for 20 seconds on each side. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate or wire rack. Repeat with remaining tortillas.
Preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Spread ½ cup of salsa on the bottom of a 9x12 casserole pan.
Dip a tortilla into the salsa pan, flip it to coat it, and place it on a plate. Add a generous tablespoon of beans in a line at the top ½ of the tortilla. Add some cheese and onions. Roll the tortilla, wrapping it around the filling tightly, and place — seam side down — into the casserole dish. Repeat with remaining tortillas.
Pour ¼ cup of salsa over each enchilada. Sprinkle some cheese over the enchiladas. Bake uncovered for 20 minutes or until bubbling and heated through. Remove from oven and allow to stand for 10 minutes before serving. To serve, spread some salsa on a plate and add two enchiladas. Garnish with cabbage, diced avocado, Mexican crema (or water-thinned sour cream), and, if needed, a sprinkling of salt to taste.
Shortcuts: The first few times I made this dish, it was midweek, and I specifically searched pantry items that would only need a little prep. If you are short on time, drain and rinse the beans, place them in a bowl with the cheese crumbles and chopped scallions, and mix them to combine. Use a 28-ounce can of green enchilada sauce instead of making the salsa from scratch (I always have the Las Palmas brand on hand for these kinds of "dinner in a hurry" situations).
Dip a tortilla into the salsa pan.
Flip the tortilla to coat the second side and place it on a plate.
Add a generous tablespoon of beans in a line at the top ⅓ of the tortilla. Add some cheese and onions.
Roll the tortilla, wrapping it around the filling tightly.
Pour ¼ cup of salsa over each enchilada. Sprinkle some cheese over the enchiladas. Bake uncovered for 20 minutes or until bubbling and heated through. Remove from oven and allow to stand for 10 minutes before serving.
Garnish and serve
To serve, spread some salsa on a plate and add two enchiladas. Garnish with cabbage, diced avocado, Mexican crema (or water-thinned sour cream), and, if needed, a sprinkling of salt to taste.
Black Bean & Queso Fresco Enchiladas Verde
I first made this vegetarian recipe to enjoy during Lent several years ago. If you're making this recipe for vegetarian friends, use vegetable stock or water. I add spinach to the salsa for color and to boost its nutritional value. I also add epazote, a bitter herb used in Mexican cooking. It's available at Latin markets and some well-stocked supermarkets. Feel free to add jalapeños or serrano peppers if you like spicy salsas. Tomatillos are acidic; I add sugar to tame them just a bit. To make the canned beans taste less "tinny," I stew them in their liquid with some aromatics until they've thickened.Makes 4 servings
For the beans:
1 can (15-ounce) black beans with liquid1 cup chicken stock
¼ medium onion
1 fat clove garlic, smashed and peeled
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground coriander
Pinch black pepper
For the salsa:
1 tablespoon neutral oil, plus more for frying1 pound tomatillos, husked, washed and quartered
1 poblano pepper, deseeded, deveined and cut into 1-inch pieces
½ pound (3 or 4) Anaheim peppers, deseeded, deveined and cut into 1-inch pieces
½ medium onion, roughly chopped
2 to 3 cloves garlic, peeled
1 generous handful of baby spinach
½ bunch cilantro
3 springs epazote
1 scant teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon Mexican oregano
½ teaspoon sea salt
½ teaspoon black pepper
2 cups chicken stock
To assemble:
8 corn tortillas1 cup crumbled queso fresco, plus more to sprinkle over the enchiladas
2 green onions, finely chopped
For garnish:
Shredded cabbageDiced avocado
Mexican crema (or sour cream)
Cilantro leaves
Pour the beans into a medium saucepan. Add the remaining ingredients for the beans and simmer over low for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Turn off the heat and set aside until ready to assemble.
Heat oil in a large skillet. Add the tomatillos, chile peppers, onion and garlic. Cook, stirring, until the tomatillos change color and soften slightly, about 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a blender. If you're using a high-speed blender, there is no need to wait for the tomatillo mixture to cool; just remove the cup from the lid and cover the hole with a clean dish towel. Using a standard blender, allow the mixture to cool for 10 minutes before proceeding. Add the remaining ingredients for the salsa to the blender and purée on high until completely smooth, about 3 to 4 minutes. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in the same large skillet. Once hot, quickly pour in the salsa, stirring immediately (be careful, it will sputter). Lower heat to a simmer. Between the 5- and 8-minute mark, skim and discard the foam that rises (the foam is excess acid from the tomatillos; removing it produces a smoother, more well-balanced sauce). Simmer the salsa for at least 20 minutes. Turn off the heat and remove it from the burner.
Heat a small skillet with ¼ cup neutral oil. Once hot, submerge a tortilla and fry for 20 seconds on each side. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate or wire rack. Repeat with remaining tortillas.
Preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Spread ½ cup of salsa on the bottom of a 9x12 casserole pan.
Dip a tortilla into the salsa pan, flip it to coat it, and place it on a plate. Add a generous tablespoon of beans in a line at the top ½ of the tortilla. Add some cheese and onions. Roll the tortilla, wrapping it around the filling tightly, and place — seam side down — into the casserole dish. Repeat with remaining tortillas.
Pour ¼ cup of salsa over each enchilada. Sprinkle some cheese over the enchiladas. Bake uncovered for 20 minutes or until bubbling and heated through. Remove from oven and allow to stand for 10 minutes before serving. To serve, spread some salsa on a plate and add two enchiladas. Garnish with cabbage, diced avocado, Mexican crema (or water-thinned sour cream), and, if needed, a sprinkling of salt to taste.
Shortcuts: The first few times I made this dish, it was midweek, and I specifically searched pantry items that would only need a little prep. If you are short on time, drain and rinse the beans, place them in a bowl with the cheese crumbles and chopped scallions, and mix them to combine. Use a 28-ounce can of green enchilada sauce instead of making the salsa from scratch (I always have the Las Palmas brand on hand for these kinds of "dinner in a hurry" situations).
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